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Walking in the UK & Alaska

Walk Reports

Walk Previews

Club Information

Threatened wilderness.

Club member Rob Hughes on a frozen river,

Brookes Range, northern Alaska.

Newsletter of the

ESSENDON

BUSHWALKING CLUB INC.

P.O. Box 32, Moonee Ponds, 3039

From the Editor

Hello again. This edition has a definite international flavour, with articles from Lyn Weber and Rob Hughes on walks they did in England and Alaska, and a preview by Laurie Benbow of a planned trip to the Mount Everest area of Nepal.

Other articles include previews, two walk reviews, a soup recipe, and some important reminders to all members and leaders.

In fact, so much has come in I’ve had to do some trimming! Budget factors prevent the newsletter from being longer, so having to trim is a great sign. Mind you, its’ not easy to trim, as it is all great stuff! Thanks to everybody who contributed. Well done.

Chris Jarvis

Editor

Submitting Articles

Articles can be sent to Chris Jarvis, E-mail: cjjarvis@labyrinth.net.au

Short articles (<500 words) can be sent in hard copy form. Longer articles should be on floppy disk or sent by email.

Photographs, including scanned or digital photos, are most welcome. Prints can be sent to me for scanning to enable easy insertion into the newsletter.

PRESIDENT’S

COLUMN

Hello All.

We are nearing the end of another year and what a year it has been. I hope you have enjoyed it as much as I have and that you are all looking forward to another year of new adventures and conquests, as I know that I am. Let me take this opportunity to thank everyone for helping to keep the club running with the least amount of hiccups. From all the members on the committee, Chris Jarvis our newsletter editor, Russell Christensen our web page man and Michael Howes our Walks Officer. Just to name a few. Then there are all the people who help stack the chairs or help wash up after supper, this is what a club is all about, its members all chipping in to do their bit.

Let’s not forget all our wonderful leaders, the ones that have been around for years and never fail to amaze us with their enthusiasm and new ideas for walks. Also our new leaders who have only begun to lead with the club but we hope they will continue on for a long time. In recent times I've heard some great things about our club from new members and old. Such as we have a good reputation for putting on a full and varied program and also that we are a friendly lot, you won’t get any arguments out of me about that.

So keep up the good work

Finally from my family and myself I wish you all a very happy Christmas and a safe and prosperous New Year.

Frank Szentmiklossy.

President.

 

 

 

 

 

BOOKING SHEET

REMINDERS

ALL MEMBERS, If you placed your name on a booking sheet at a meeting, you MUST confirm your intentions with the leader AT LEAST THREE DAYS before the event. Leaders have the discretion to cancel an event if there are insufficient confirmations three days prior.

Telephone and Internet bookings must also be confirmed at least three days prior to the event.

LEADERS, Please return your completed booking sheet to the committee as soon as practical after the event, even if the event was cancelled. These sheets are required for club records in case of injuries, disputes, legal queries and club statistics.

LEADERS

COLUMN

TRIP INTENTIONS

The Victoria Police Search and Rescue Squad have recommended an important change to whom club search and rescue contacts should report an overdue group.

If a group is overdue, the nominated search and rescue contact for that event (arranged by the leader before departure), should contact the Victoria Police Rescue Coordination Centre on 1 800 135 729. They will then pass the details of the group’s intentions onto other police units for further action.

This number, instructions for contacts and prompts for key event information has been incorporated into a new Search and Rescue Details form for club leaders and their contacts. This new standard form is now being distributed to leaders.

Chris Jarvis

EVENT PREVIEWS

EVENING WALKS

Ian & Sylvia McLean

WILLIAMSTOWN

TWILIGHT WALK

Friday 12/1/01, 8 km, Easy

Meeting at 6.30 pm in Greenwich Reserve Car park (corner of the Strand and North Street, Williamstown). Tea will be either BYO or buy en route. We will be stopping at Commonwealth Reserve Gem Pier to eat teas. The walk will encompass the sights and atmosphere of Williamstown at night, capturing the Melbourne skyline and its lights together with its yachts along the waterfront on Hobson’s Bay. Return via the streets where the shops and cafes are, for which Williamstown is renowned.

METROPOLITAN ORIENTEERING

Tuesday 23/1/01

For anyone who wants to try something different, be at Canning Reserve, Canning Street Avondale Heights at 6.30 pm. No compass is required. The cost is $2.50. Bring a watch, lightweight shoes and clothing and a drink.

The idea is to enter either: -

The 2km, 4km, 6km or 8km course; aiming to have the fastest time to reach the allocated amount of control points for your selected course,

or,

Participate in the power walker’s course. In this case you plan your route trying to score as high as possible within one hour. Points are deducted for every minute late back. There are usually 20 control points to choose from. These are valued from 1 to 5 points each i.e. Controls 1 to 5, 2 points each; controls 6 to 10, 3 points each; controls 11 to 15, 4 points each and controls 16 to 20, 5 points each.

Everyone sees his or her map simultaneously with a mass start. So come and join us and have some fun. The first time we did this just for fun, now we are "hooked". Hope to see you there.

WOODLANDS

HISTORIC PARK / GELLIBRAND HILL

PARK

Thursday Feb 8, 10km Easy

We plan to commence walking at 7pm from the Somerton Road entrance. BYO tea prewalk, or if you desire, use electric BBQ facilities. (These BBQ’s are not available in the event of a Fire Ban Day.) The walk route entails Woodlands Homestead, through the wildlife enclosure (kangaroo sightings guaranteed) then onto Gellibrand Hill with it’s spectacular night views of Melbourne and surrounds. The return route will be via the Boundary Track. It may be handy to bring a torch. Sorry no dogs on this walk in accordance with park regulations.

CITY PARKS AND GARDENS

Thursday 15/3/01, 10km, Easy

Meeting at 6.30pm at the front entrance to the Zoo. BYO tea pre-walk at 6.30 is suggested so we can be on our way by 7pm. This walk traverses Royal Park, Melbourne University Grounds, Exhibition Gardens and Spring Street, and onto the Treasury and Fitzroy Gardens. Possum and Fruit Bat sightings are guaranteed. Return will include supper in Lygon Street.

YELLOW GUM PARK/PLENTY RIVER-BLUE LAKE

Anzac Day, Day Walk. Wednesday 25-4-01 10km Easy. 9am start.

One of Victoria’s newest and most diverse Parks, tucked away on the East bank of the Plenty River at Plenty. Formerly the Blue Lake private property, this area contains a rare species of endangered butterfly and rare type of spider orchid that is only found here. The pristine Blue Lake is fed by spring water and is surrounded by floating stones, which have to be seen to be believed.

This walk is a figure of eight, which means that we can have a BBQ lunch at the picnic site where we will be leaving the cars, before proceeding with the second part of the walk.

In view of the close proximity to Melbourne and a short but interesting walk the meeting time at the Bowling Club car park will be 9am.

Wandiligong Base Camp

W/E January 26-28

Bill Casey

After an absence of two years we will return to one of my favourite spots, the beautiful Wandiligong Valley.

Wandiligong is situated some 6 km south of Bright at the foot of the high country of north-eastern Victoria. In the surrounding hills are some of the most undisturbed relics of the gold-mining era, but to reach them requires a bit of effort. This of course explains why they are still there in a relatively undisturbed state. Much of the mine machinery is rusting away at the mine site as, owing to the nature of the terrain it was too expensive to retrieve it.

On Friday, we will pick an old mine site on the geological map of the area and attempt to locate it. The hills are steep and, in places, the blackberries are thick, but Friday will be spent high in those hills seeing what we can find.

Saturday will be a repeat effort on some other mine, and Sunday will be a rest day, when we will enjoy a stroll around the town.

We will be in tents at the local camping ground which boasts showers with a limitless supply of the hottest water you are ever likely to encounter – just what’s needed after a day in the hills!

Evening meals on Friday and Saturday will be at the local pub, not exactly 5 star, but a great place nonetheless.

If you want a weekend requiring a bit of effort but a lot of fun, join me on a weekend you won’t forget.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mt. Howitt

Labour Day L/WE, March 10-12

Medium

Chris Jarvis

A three day pack walk to the popular Mt. Howitt, with an unusual approach and exit.

Starting on the Mt. Stirling Circuit Road, we will "bag" Howitt via Stanleys Name Spur. After camping at Macalister Springs we then go over Mt. Magdala and down Helicopter Spur, camping on the Howqua River at the base of Howitt Spur. Then it’s up Queen Spur Road onto Stanleys Name Spur and down to the cars.

Some previous pack walking experience is essential, and full alpine kit is required.

The Bump Tunnel

Sunday Jan 7, 16kms, E/M

Frank Szentmiklossy

This walk starts at Powelltown East of Warbuton and follows the route of an old timber tramway beside the little Yarra River. The feature known as the Bump is an old railway tunnel. Long since over grown and it has also caved in, but it is still visible. From here we retrace our steps to Powelltown.

The Outer Circle Bike Ride

Sunday Jan 28, 50kms, Med

Frank Szentmiklossy

We start this ride in town at Flinders Street Station and follow the Yarra Trail up stream to the Gardiners Creek Trail, then along this till we reach East Malvern, where the old Outer Circle railway line used to cross. Following this to Fairfield where we join up with the Yarra Trail once more and on back into town.

Brimbank Park Evening Walk

Thursday Feb 22, 12kms, Easy

Frank Szentmiklossy

Starting at my place we will stroll down into the park, cross the river a couple of times and wonder around the park enjoying the sights and sounds of the twighlight. Then we will return to my place for refreshments.

 

Cathedral Ranges Easy Packwalk

W/E March 17-18, 12kms, E/M

Frank Szentmiklossy

Here's one for the beginner or those that just want a really nice easy weekend in a lovely part of Victoria. We will make our way up on Friday night camp at Neds Gully. A not too early rise the next morning for an easy stroll (a few undulations) to our next camp site, The Farmyard. After setting up camp the afternoon is yours to relax or to come for an easy stroll minus the big pack.

The next day we will head towards Cathedral Mountain along the range top track then from here its down to Neds Gully and the cars. There are a few ups and downs, not too bad though, the first day we walk about 5.5kms plus what ever we do after making camp. The second day we walk 6kms. Would I lie??

Mt Buangor

W/E April 7-8, 25kms, M

Frank Szentmiklossy

North West of Melbourne between Beaufort and Ararat, this is the Base camp that was cancelled early this year. We will head up on Saturday morning to Middle Creek camping ground just below Mt Buangor. This will be our base for the weekend. From here we will explore the area. The summits of Sugarloaf and Buangor offer great views, then there's the cave and a whole lot more. This is a great location and few people rarely visit it. It has a good camping site with shelter and toilets.

 

 

NEPAL, 2001- A TREK ODDITY

By Laurie Benbow

After seeing films, reading magazine articles and hearing personal accounts of trekking tours into the wonderful Everest region of Nepal, Maureen and I have decided to visit the area to see for ourselves this unique part of our Planet.

We invite other members of Essendon Bushwalking Club to join us for the trip, which we have planned to undertake around November 2001. I have made some tentative enquiries to "Last Frontiers Trekking" in Kathmandu. They come highly recommended and have been used as a trek organiser on previous occasions by the club. I have received some information and prices for the trip and together with airfares it appears that the cost will be in the vicinity of A$4000 at the current exchange rate.

The trip that we will be taking is much the same as the one that the "Intrepid Foursome"- Chris, Therese, Neville & Russell - did a couple of years ago. We will be visiting the spectacular Everest region of the Himalayas, passing through sub tropical Pine and Rhododendron forests and the high mountain valleys of the Khumbu in the Sagarmatha National Park. We start in Kathmandu with a day of sightseeing, shopping and making final preparations. The next day we take a short flight to Lukla (altitude 2800 meters), which is where the trek really starts.

Porters or yaks will carry most of our baggage and we will only need daypacks with water, camera, coat, gloves, and other personal gear. The trek passes through places such as Phakding and Namche Bazaar, where we will spend a day acclimatizing, confirming our trek permits and making a short side trip to Syangboche and the Everest View Hotel, from which you can see - yes, Mt Everest.

During the following days we will see wonderful views of high Himalayan peaks, visit local monasteries, meet local people and enjoy the culture as we make our way to the base of Everest through Tengboche, Pheriche and Lobuche. We have another rest day in Lobuche for acclimatization and the next day follow the trail along the Western side of the Khumbu Glacier. The trail gets rougher and crosses several other side glaciers on the way to Gorak Shep, which will be our destination for the night.

After a fairly difficult climb the summit of Kalapathar (5,545meters) will be our objective the next morning. The summit provides the best views of the big fella and many other peaks if the weather is clear. After taking in the view and taking the odd photo, an optional side trip to Everest base camp may also be made during the afternoon if time permits. The night is again spent at Gorak Shep before we start our return trip back down the Khumbu seeing views of Island Peak and Makalu in the distance. Later we pass through the village of Dingboche where apparently the mountain scenery is very special.

We eventually return to Namche Bazaar and finally to Lukla for a farewell dinner with our trekking crew, where, according to the trip information "YOU CAN BUY BOTTLES OF BEER OR TRY THE LOCAL CHANG (?) FOR MERRY MAKING"….Very interesting!

After the flight back to Kathmandu an additional free day is allowed in case of delays caused by bad weather or similar. If the day has not been lost, it can be used for shopping, sightseeing or resting.

Total number of days in Nepal is 19.

There is no firm commitment at this stage, so we are open to any suggestions for fine tuning the program, so long as the basic trek format is not lost. Please feel free to contact me via the club secretary.

Cheers.

EVENT

REPORTS

Let’s visit Sugarloaf Reservoir

My inaugural leader’s walk with this Club was to Sugarloaf Reservoir on Sunday July 16, when a party of 21 gathered on a fine sunny day to trek 18 km around this picturesque reservoir trail.

As Sugarloaf is only a 50 km drive from our car park start (it’s towards Eltham/Yarra Glen), we were well along the track soon after am, and, after the obligatory (easy?) morning climb, enjoyed valley views from Eagle Point lookout at morning tea, complete with twin solar toilet facilities for those in need.

The overall trip took about 5 hours, including stops to view many grey kangaroos (about 100 were spotted on the day) and a break or two for the flower enthusiasts who gathered bunches of jonquils & snow-drops from now deserted farm sites within the Park area.

The flowers actually lasted at home for around 2 weeks, so, based on feedback from many in the group, I’ve decided to make this a repeat walk next July, hopefully when the flowers and sunshine are again in abundance. July 15, 2001 is therefore a potential diary date for any interested walkers.

There was certainly a good reaction to the home-made cakes, scones etc offered by the nearby Watson’s Creek Cafe staff, so Ron Bell’s traditional afternoon teas will certainly continue for many future walks.

Neville Hesketh

 

LerdeRderg Gorge - Bears Head range and Ah Kow track

Sunday 27th September, 2000.

The lure of walking the spectacular Lerderderg Gorge was enough to get 14 walkers out of bed early on Sunday morning with a start of 8am Daylight Savings Time (ie. 7am). This was one of Bill Casey’s walks, not to be missed because you never know what you’re really in for. We had a cool morning to start down the Ah Kow Track. Down, down, and down we went to the bottom of the hill. What a steep slope! A few hardy walkers could stay upright but for most of us, sliding down the muddy hillside on our backsides was the easiest option. After a fair bit of slipping and sliding along the way we were finally at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by majestic rocky cliffs, wildflowers coming into bloom and the fast flowing clear waters of the Lerderderg River. After winter rains the river had transformed it from a dry river bed into a fast flowing water course and that means:

  1. river crossings in knee deep, freezing cold water and lots of them (8 crossings in all)
  2. bush bashing on old and overgrown tracks beside the river and
  3. clambering over slippery wet rocks and cliffs.

After four adventure-filled hours we had made the half way mark of the walk – all of 7km! We settled down to a leisurely lunch by a calm bend in the river, soaking in the beautiful sunny day, contemplating the next part of our adventure – the climb up the Bears Head range. We speculated on how Bears Head range acquired its moniker. Is it the shape of a koala bears head or is it that you can’t bear the climb up?

After lunch and a couple more invigorating river crossings we came to the start of our ascent. We climbed, clambered, hauled and heaved ourselves up the rocky point enjoying the views back down to the river and across to the nearby hills. Up and up and up we climbed and then suddenly, and sadly, we had arrived at the top and were on our way back to the cars. As one of the walkers noted, this was a real bush walk. Just us and the gorge with its spectacular scenery, dramatic cliffs, cool clear water and beautiful wildflowers coming into bloom – wattles, dwarf grevillea, baeckia, dwarf bush peas, purple hoveas, a lone banksia and more. A flock of sulphur crested cockies had kept us company all day, the wombats had left their calling cards along the track hinting at the presence of wildlife keeping sanctuary here. It is one of the best areas within an hours drive from Melbourne and accessible any time of year (well, sort of). I can’t wait to get back there.

Karen Bennett

 

 

 

LENTIL SOUP

From Lucy Padovani

500 gr. green or brown lentils

2 garlic cloves

2 bay leaves

2 litres cold water or chicken stock

2 leeks, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

2 carrots, finely chopped

2 potatoes, peeled and finely chopped

2 leeks finely chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

350gr. canned tomatoes, chopped or crushed.

2 tablespoons chopped parsley.

Rinse lentils and soak in cold water for 30 mins. Rinse again and place in pot with chicken stock garlic and bay leaves.

Cook for 30 mins. Heat oil and fry leeks, celery potatoes and carrots, toss well, add tomatoes and lentils with the stock.

 

Your Committee

for 2000 – 2001 is:

President: Frank Szentmiklossy

Vice President: Paulene Sunderland

Secretary: Nicole Lowe

Treasurer: Lauren Eagle

Committee: Ron Bell, Inge Lingham, Sylvia McLean, Enid Widmer, Michael Howes

Members Discount

Don’t forget that members can obtain a discount at Bogong Equipment, 374 Little Bourke Street. They offer a 10% discount on all non sale items.

 

CONTACTING THE CLUB

GENERAL ENQUIRIES

(Snail) Mail: The Secretary, Essendon Bushwalking Club Inc., P.O. Box 32, Moonee Ponds, 3039

E-mail: Russell Christensen trekker@netspace.net.au

Club Web Page: www.netspace.net.au/~trekker

 

WALKS PROGRAMS

Are released three times each year, at the April, August and December club meetings.

One copy of the program is included within the club newsletter Old Man Emu.

Additional copies are available from the Secretary or Treasurer for 20¢ each.

CLUB MEETINGS

Are held on the second Wednesday of each month, at Hall 3, St.Thomas Church (behind the church), Mt.Alexander Road, Moonee Ponds Junction (corner of Mt.Alexander and Pascoe Vale Roads. Meetings start at 7.30 pm.

Hire Equipment

The contact for hire of equipment is Janet Doyle, via the club secretary.

Hire Rates W/End Week

Tent $10 $20

Backpack $6 $10

Sleeping Bag $5 $5

Japara $5 $5

Stove $5 $5

Sleeping Mat $1 $2

Maximum hire rate $25 each week. Each additional week a further $25 fee will apply.

 

 

 

Club Fees

Annual Membership $ 30

Visitors Fee (per event) $ 5

Annual Membership fees apply from June 1 to May 31. Membership fees not paid two months after June 1 renders the member un-financial. There are no pro-rata membership fees as the club is required to pay an annual Federation / Insurance premium

An un-financial member is required to pay the visitors fee for every event they attend until they have paid their full membership fee.

Un-financial members and visitors attending more than three events in a club year are required to pay the full membership fee.

New members must pay the annual membership fee within 28 days of their membership application being approved by the committee.

 

WAINWRIGHT'S COAST TO COAST WALK

"LET'S HAVE A GO!"

By Lyn Weber

Pat and I left London's Kings Cross Bus Station at 10.30am on Friday 6 May and arrived at Whitehaven at 8pm (a long day, but one third the price of a train ticket), then took a taxi to St Bees Head (15 minutes/6 pounds sterling). We were a bit apprehensive and thinking "what are we doing here?", but the taxi driver was inspirational. He had done "the walk" himself many years ago and when he found out our plans he said "You'll love it".

And LOVE IT we did.

We had been a bit naive in thinking that it would be a well defined path and would just be a matter of following the signs, and "we had a map as well, didn't we?". Boy, did we find out in a hurry just how wrong we were. In the Lakes District they are against signs, so we very quickly became experts at following people who knew the way, or who knew how to find the way. We had to be careful though, we nearly followed some people who weren't on the Coast to Coast trail - oops!! I did learn how to "sort of read a compass and a map" after a crash course along the way from some fellow travellers.

We met some wonderful people along the way, we being passed by everyone else at some stage during the day and then us passing them as they stopped for lunch etc. The social life was great (can you believe anybody had the energy for socialising at the end of the day after walking for 6 to 8 hours up and down mountains?), all meeting for dinner in the evenings at the local pub and discussing the walk for the day, "what is your B&B accommodation like", "where are you staying tomorrow night?", and most importantly for us, how to find the start of the walk the next morning and what time everyone else was planning on heading out of town.

We took each day as it came and at the end of the day, completely amazed ourselves that we had actually done it and were ready for more of the same the next day. We "cracked it" - which was to become our catch phrase when a wiry old guy came walking full bore down a particularly steep hill as we were struggling up, said "keep going ladies, you've nearly cracked it". Nearly cracked, be buggared, it took us nearly another 30 minutes to get to the top.

The feet held out well but the boots did not. Mine fell apart about halfway through the trip, fortunately on the way in to Richmond, a town large enough to have an outdoor shop where I could buy a new pair - which of course was cause for concern. Breaking in new boots under such conditions was not on the agenda. Fortunately they caused no blisters or major discomfort. Pat lost two toe-nails sometime after the end of the walk. The "foot" ritual was something that needed to be seen to be believed, with the creams, cotton wool balls, bandaides etc that went on each morning and night.

We had brilliant weather for most of the way - hot sunny days in the mid 20's for the first 8-10 days (except for one day when we had to climb over the last of the mountains in the Lakes District when the mist came down and we couldn't see 10 feet in front of us. There was a group of 8 of us and we all stuck together quite closely until we came down out of the mist - a bit scary, but we got through it OK with a bit of help from a GPS, numerous compasses and map reading pow-wows along the way. We were "extremely" lucky to have only 2 days when it rained; which in England, in that area, is almost unheard of.

We averaged 20km a day for the 16 days, but had the occasional "long day", one of which was 28km and unable to be broken up by staying somewhere in the middle -because there was nowhere to stay. Some people made it across in 12, 13 or 14 days. We chose to break it up a bit more than that and were able to do so because we hadn't booked on to one of the organised trips. Our routine, when we arrived into town at the end of the day, was to find our lodgings for the night, settle in, have a bath or shower then check the "bible" (a little book worth every penny of the 3 pounds we paid that listed all the accommodation available across the Coast to Coast walk) and ring ahead to book the next night's accommodation. Then we would ring the Pack Horse people, tell them where we were that night and where we were going to be the next night, and next morning they would pick up and deliver our bags for a fee of 3.75 pounds each. WORTH IT!!! All we had to carry was our day pack.

We stayed at some wonderful B&B's along the way, in little villages and hamlets with names like Danby Whiske, Shap, Rosthwaite, Keld, Kirkby Stephen and Ingleby Arncliffe, some of which consisted only of about a dozen or so houses and nothing else - no pub, no shop, no petrol station. On those nights the hosts provided an evening meal. The prices for the B&B's ranged from 15 to 22 pounds per person (evening meals about 9 pounds), with the cheaper ones sometimes the more welcoming and comfortable.

We finished the Coast to Coast walk across England, rather reluctantly, by dipping our boots into the North Sea at Robin Hood's Bay after having dipped them into the Irish Sea at the start of the walk 16 days earlier and 320 km to the West at St Bees Head. With a mountain of memories and a photo shop full of snaps, the hard walking, sometimes scrambling, up and down rocky mountain slopes (fells or lofts) in the Lakes District, up and over the hills zig-zagged with dry stone walls, through picturesque valleys in the Yorkshire Dales, over a multitude of stiles along centuries old right-of-way paths through farmers' fields of sheep, cows and the odd bull or two, and picking our way over the boggy, muddy Yorkshire Moors and across the occasional stream (beck), was more than worth the effort. We signed the book in the Coast to Coast Pub and toasted ourselves with a well-earned pint of Guinness - "WE'D CRACKED IT!"

 

BROOKS RANGE, ALASKA

By Rob Hughes

Club member Rob Hughes has been working in Washington DC. In June he went on a guided walk in northern Alaska. Here is his report.

The big adventure of my stay here took place back in June. I went up to the Brooks Range, right up at the top of Alaska, for an eight day backpacking trip. The party met in Fairbanks, which sits about dead centre in the largest state in the union. The group comprised five, three Americans and me, plus our locally based guide/leader. It was organised by a small company, Arctic Wild, that guides hiking, rafting and dog sledding trips. They receive my unhesitating recommendation. From Fairbanks we had a two and a half hour flight in a light plane that descended and landed on a flat area beside a river (I won’t exaggerate and call it an airstrip) on the northern side of the range. There is about a four month window between May and September when most of the snow and ice has gone and it’s possible to get into this wilderness. It really is wilderness. During the long flight north there is nothing but forest, mountains, tundra, and the huge expanse of the Yukon.

Being late June and well inside the Arctic circle, the sun remained above the horizon 24 hours a day. This made sleeping in a tent an unusual experience. I took along one of those blindfolds airlines provide to help you snooze during long flights and it worked brilliantly. Navigation is also an interesting experience this far north. Magnetic declination was a massive 34 degrees, making compass direction diverge wildly from the mapped north.

The wildlife we saw was totally amazing. It ended up at something like nine grizzly bears, a couple of moose, two arctic wolves, an arctic fox, a porcupine, a wolverine, several musk oxen, numerous dall sheep, and many caribou. Most of these were seen through binoculars, although one grizzly was up relatively close and did take a long hard look at us before deciding to retreat. In answer to your next question, we carried small cans of "bear spray". This is a capsicum spray in a pressure pack can. If you were unfortunate enough to have a grizzly attack you would not run, but repel the bear by spraying it’s face. Seriously. Eight hundred pounds of enraged Grizzly charging at you at 30 miles per hour and you stand there and spray it’s face. Sorry, I should have said that first you have to check the wind direction to ensure that you don’t spray yourself in the face. (If you do decide to run, locals say that you don’t have to outrun the bear, you just have to outrun the person you’re with.)

We saw no other humans until the final day when we arrived at our nominated point to be collected by the light plane. Another group turned up with a guide who simply introduced himself as McGill. The two hikers in the party clearly had an extremely high regard for McGill, but this was nothing compared to the regard McGill clearly had for himself. As we talked about our route and the things we’d seen, McGill slowly shook his head and told us how it was all wrong, and we should have done it all differently, his way. You meet some strange people in Alaska. The male population easily exceeds that of females but lest any woman rush off to Alaska looking for a husband they should remember that the odds are good, but the goods are odd.

The flight back to Fairbanks was a pretty wild experience. The weather closed in over the Brooks Range and the trip was like a roller coaster ride. I'll tell you about the Fairbanks taxi drivers another time.

Post Script

Presidential candidate George W. Bush is reported to have said that if he wins in November he will support oil drilling in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. That is the Brooks Range. By the time this edition of OME is distributed the fate of this area may be known.

LATE NEWS

Club members Ian Tovey and Chris Jarvis were part of a fifteen member team from VicWalk Bushwalkers Search and Rescue (BS&R) who assisted police with a search for an autistic boy missing at Mt. Samaria on November 16 and 17.

The boy was found safe and well at 1600hrs after two nights in the bush.

Chris Jarvis