Old Man Emu
August 1998

Newsletter of the
ESSENDON
BUSHWALKING CLUB INC.
P.O. Box 32, Moonee Ponds, 3039



Internet Edition
To maintain privacy, all references to personal telephone numbers and residential addresses have been omitted from this edition.

From the Editor

Welcome to the August '98 Bumper edition of the club newsletter. In this issue you will find a mixture of walk reports, event previews, and other articles of interest to club members. Read on and find out for yourself.

With many thanks for the number and variety of articles submitted by all the contributors. Please go out of your way to thank them when you get the chance.

The newsletter is now starting to mature and reflect what the club is about. Well done!

Chris Jarvis, Editor

Article Deadlines
The newsletter is distributed concurrently with each new walks program. Articles must be submitted by no later than the LEADERS MEETING PRIOR TO IT'S INTENDED ISSUE. Articles received after that date will be held over to the next issue. Preferably, they should be submitted as early as possible.

Submitting Articles
Articles can be sent to Chris Jarvis,
E-mail: cjjarvis@pa.ausom.net.au

Short articles (<500 words) can be sent in hard copy form.

Long articles (>500 words) should be on floppy disk, accompanied by a hard copy, or sent by e-mail.

Photographs are most welcome, and can be sent to Stephen Bocquet for scanning to enable easy insertion into the newsletter.
--------------------------------------------------------


NEW VENUE
FOR
CLUB MEETINGS

The Moonee Valley council has decided to renovate the community centre in Moonee Ponds, where the club has held its monthly meetings since its inception. Starting with the September meeting, we will be moving to

HALL 3, St.THOMAS' CHURCH
Adjacent to the Moonee Ponds
Community Centre
Hall 3 is down the driveway, behind the church.

Meetings are still at 7-30 pm on the second Wednesday of the month (the day is stipulated in the club constitution, would you believe!).

Stephen Bocquet
--------------------------------------------------------
PRESIDENT'S COLUMN

Having just been elected president, this seems a good time to write something about where I see the club going in the next year. I don't envisage any big changes - I'm keen to maintain the good balance of activities we have on the program. With this in mind, my main priority for the coming year is the leaders' training weekend, scheduled for 14/15 November. This is being organised by a subcommittee headed up by Martin Doyle, with myself, Chris Jarvis, Ian Tovey and Neil Campbell as members. Several people have expressed interest in doing the leaders' training, and we have been approaching others - if you are interested, let one of us know - don't wait for us to find you! I am keen to see a new crop of leaders emerge following the training weekend. Many of our longstanding leaders have moved on to other commitments, so we need new leaders to maintain an active walks program. However, there is no obligation to lead walks once you've done the training weekend. Having others on a walk who know what's involved in leadership can be quite helpful to the leader. Also, we have generally only held the training weekend once every two years at best (the last one was held in 1995) - you might not feel able or confident to lead a walk now, but if you've done the training you can take it up later.

I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Martin Doyle for his work for the club over the past two years as President. I've enjoyed working with Martin as a committee member and as Vice President last year. The 'President's Challenges' organised by Martin stand out as some of the more memorable recent walks. I'm thinking of the 50 km 'day walk' over the Bluff and Mt. Howitt, and the ascent of Hannels Spur on Kosciusko. Maybe it comes from learning what it's like to be really tired at the end of the day!

I would also like to thank retiring committee members Bryan Folie, John Hempenstall and Ian Tovey for their work on committee, and to welcome our new committee members Ian McLean, Nicole Lowe and Michael Howes. I can't forget Paulene and Des! Paulene has moved on after four solid years as Secretary/Treasurer, but stays on as Vice President, and Des has returned to take on the Secretary / Treasurer role.

Your Committee
for 1998/99 is:

Stephen Bocquet (President)
Paulene Sunderland (Vice President)
Des Sunderland (Secretary/Treasurer)
Ron Bell (Club Contact)
Russell Christensen
Michael Howes (Walks Coordinator)
Nicole Lowe
Ian McLean
Sylvia McLean

Janet and Martin Doyle continue as our equipment officers, and Chris Jarvis continues as editor of Old Man Emu and club FVWC Search and Rescue Delegate. Ron has taken on the job of club contact, and will generally be manning the information table at the meetings.

Ian McLean has taken over collecting walk sheets: Leaders, please return your sheets to Ian after the walk.

Enjoy your walks in the coming year - personally I'm looking forward to the ski season as I write this - and I look forward to seeing you on a walk or at the club meetings.

Stephen Bocquet, President
-------------------------------------------------------- SECRETARY / TREASURER

I would like to start by saying that I will only be holding the position as Secretary/Treasurer for this financial year. This advance notice will give someone out there time to consider taking on the position. If anyone feels that they may be interested in taking over the position next year, come and talk to me and I can tell you what is involved.

Membership Fees
One of the last decisions made by the previous committee was to set the membership fees at $30 for this year. This decision was not made lightly, there were two reasons for coming to the decision.

As most of you are probably aware, the August meeting will be the last time we meet at the Moonee Ponds Community Centre. The Rental that we have paid to the Community Centre has been extremely good. We are not going to be able to find another location suitable to our needs at the same rental. It is anticipated that the rental could rise by as much as 50%.

The second reason is the Public Liability and Personal Accident Insurance has also increased, and we have been advised that it will probably increase again at the end of this year.

With these two payments being the major part of our expenditure it was deemed necessary to increase the membership fees to meet these increased costs. A flow on from this decision has been to also increase visitors fees to $5, effective from September 1, 1998.

Des Sunderland
-------------------------------------------------------- Members Discount
Don't forget that members can obtain a discount at Bogong Equipment, 374 Little Bourke Street. They offer a 10% discount on all non sale items.

Hire Equipment
The contact for hire of equipment is Janet Doyle

Hire Rates	W/End	Week
Tent	$10	$20
BackPack	$6	$10
Sleeping Bag	$5	$5
Japara	$5	$5
Stove	$5	$5
Sleeping Mat	$1	$2

Maximum hire rate $25 each week. Each additional week a further $25 fee will apply.

Club Fees

Annual Membership         $ 30
Visitors Fee (per event)     $ 5

Annual Membership fees apply from June 1 to May 31. Membership fees not paid two months after June 1 renders the member unfinancial.

An unfinancial member is required to pay the visitors fee for every event they attend until they have paid their full membership fee.

Unfinancial members and visitors attending more than three events in a club year are required to pay the full membership fee.
-------------------------------------------------------- Have you ever ...
Have you ever donned dry socks
At the start of some new day,
Then found that there's a stream to wade
Not eighty yards away?

Or coaxed a fire to blazing point
While snow lay all about,
For some fool to spill a billy on
And all but put it out?

Have you ever leant your axe -
"Here, treat it as you own!"
And then had it brought back to you
Sharpened on stone?

Or securely tied your tent ropes,
Although your're feeling beat,
Just to have the whole lot torn out
By a pair of lumbering feet?

Or carried eggs for miles to make
A meal with some finesse,
Just to find that they have broken
To a horrid gooey mess?

Have you ever left your tent behind
As huts were guaranteed,
And heard the leader shyly say,
"I think we're lost - indeed"?

Or cried "Enough" on some steep slope,
But the leader says "Persist,"
And when you stagger to the top
There's nought to see but mist?

Have you ever left your boots outside,
For all day long its poured,
Just to wake up in the morning
When they've frozen like a board?

Or left your billy, plates and such,
All neat upon the ground,
And a snowstorm in the night,
Prevents them being found?

Have you ever walked in brand new boots,
Looking very neat,
And sprouted crops of blisters
Till you cannot see your feet?

Or fetched water from a stream,
Away a chain or two,
And when at last you want a drink, There's not enough for you?

If all these things you've done my friend,
No need to scream and shout,
For you're a seasoned walker,
Of that there is no doubt!

Peter Fleming, Skyline No.14, 1964

Contributed by Rhonda Pawlik, who thinks it came from an early edition of the Kosciusko Huts Association newsletter

--------------------------------------------------------
Essendon Bushwalking Club is a

Member of VicWalk

(Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs Inc.)

Some of the services provided by
VicWalk
include:

1. •Providing a central contact point for people seeking a bushwalking club;
   
2. •Representing member clubs at government and non-government forums;
   
3. •Maintaining a search and rescue group to assist the Police with searching for people lost in remote or difficult terrain (Bushwalkers Search and Rescue);
   
4. •Providing a voice for bushwalkers on conservation and parks management issues;
   
5. •Maintaining a public liability and personal accident insurance scheme on behalf of member clubs; and
   
6. •Producing pamphlets and other material on bushwalking issues.
   

As at April 30, the Federation comprised of sixty seven affiliate clubs (full membership of FVWC), and thirteen associate clubs (restricted membership), representing the interests of over 5700 bushwalkers.

The Federation can be contacted on (03) 9421 3100, or by writing to The Administration Officer, 241 Swan Street, Richmond, 3121.
E-mail: vicwalk@vicnet.net.au
Visit the FVWC's internet site at
http://www.vicnet.net.au/~vicwalk

By Chris Jarvis

SITUATIONS VACANT
FVWC DELEGATES
A job opportunity: I am looking for two people to act as delegates to the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs. This entails going to their meetings, which are held on the first Tuesday of each month from 6 pm to around 7-30 pm in East Melbourne, and reporting back to the club committee or general meeting as appropriate. It would suit someone who works in or near the city, or who would otherwise be available to attend meetings. Please consider taking up this role - it would be a great help to the club, as we need to keep in touch with what the Federation is doing. Even if you can only make it to some meetings, it would still be appreciated.

Stephen Bocquet
--------------------------------------------------------
OLD SKIS NEVER DIE.

They just become ............................................ TOMATO STAKES!

The person who does this will remain anonymous. Ed.
-------------------------------------------------------- Bushwalkers Search and Rescue
VICSES Navigation Challenge
Saturday October 17
For S&R members only.
A 12 hour Rogaine style event, involving teams from the SES, Ambulance, CFA, Police, DNRE, Parks Victoria, the ADF and Bushwalkers S&R.

This will be a friendly competition between organisations involved in search and rescue in Victoria. Teams of between 2 to 4 members from all the organsations will be involved.

If you are interested, please register your intentions with Chris Jarvis by no later than September 25.
-------------------------------------------------------- SNOW REPORTS ON THE NET

If you like the white fluffy stuff, the following site has all the information you could possibly need - snow reports, weather forecasts, climate data, and 'sno-cam' pictures from the resorts, updated hourly:
http://www.ski.com.au/info/report.html

Stephen Bocquet
--------------------------------------------------------
OUTRAGE!

GOVT. GIVES AWAY
part of
NATIONAL PARK

Last December, the Victorian Parliament passed legislation removing a large area around Mt. McKay from the Alpine National Park to facilitate further development of downhill ski runs at Falls Creek. Many people who value our National Parks were not impressed, particularly when there was no warning that the Government intended to do this, and no debate in the community. If you feel this way, come to the September club meeting, when we will have a letter-writing activity on this issue. It is unlikely that the Government will change their minds and repeal the legislation, so the focus will be on urging them to require a proper Environmental Effects Statement for any new developments on the site.

--------------------------------------------------------
FUTURE EVENTS

Ian & Sylvia McLean

Djerriwarra Reservoir - Toolern Vale. 13 km, Easy side of medium.
A picturesque walk around the perimeter of Djerriwarra Reservoir, back up water supply for Melton; situated 55 km west of Melbourne. Some cross country as well as tracks and four wheel drive tracks. Terrain undulating. BYO afternoon tea.

Long Forest Reserve. 12 km, Easy side of medium.
Come and see the last remnants of Bull Mallee trees south of the Great Divide. Enjoy a river ramble and observe the wildlife. Wallabies and Kangaroos are guaranteed to be seen, along with perhaps a Koala or Echidna. There is also an array of bird life and the flora is unique. Walking will be on and off tracks following the Coimadai Creek with the surrounding terrain gently undulating. This area is 50 km west of Melbourne. BYO afternoon tea.

Gisborne Walk, 12 - 16 km, Easy.
We are planning to take a route around the highlights of the town of Gisborne, including it's buildings, reserves, creeks and botanical gardens, plus or minus Mt.Gisborne for it's wonderful views. The walk will conclude at Ann Mahoney and Steve Davenport's for a house warming and BBQ tea.

Christmas Party, W/E December 5-6.
Everyone is welcome to the EBC's Christmas celebrations at Ian & Sylvia's at Riddells Creek. The plan will be for two day walks, perhaps a bike ride and evening BBQ on Saturday night, followed by festivities. Day one will involve a 10 km walk, setting off at 11.00 am from home to Conglomerate Gully for lunch at the waterfalls along with Koala spotting. Then back home for BBQ tea etc. On Sunday we will set off at about 10.00 am by car for a 13 1/2 km easy medium walk, commencing at Cherokee, 10 minutes away. The walk is through lovely farmland, mountain ash forests, and then insidiously up Mt.Macedon to Lion's Head and onto Sanatorium Lake for lunch. There we will be enveloped by more Mountain Ash and tree ferns. The return will. be via a different route through similar vegetation back down to Cherokee and home for afternoon tea.

Anyone is welcome to stay overnight, BYO sleeping bag, Thermarest and pillow (tent if you wish), but we will be able to find plenty of indoor floor space. Others may find it convenient to just attend one day or other.

1. Sylvia & Ian McLean
   

Great Divide Marathon 42 km
29 November 1998. Bill Casey

The Club has held a marathon type of day walk in Victoria's Central Highlands each year since 1995 - in fact, last year there were two, one in February and the other in November. The event has proved to be quite popular, with quite a few members who were probably considered "easy-medium walkers" accepting the challenge to extend themselves and completing the distance. Altogether some 60 walkers have taken part over the four years, many of them 2 or 3 times. The poor old leader has done it every year - he had no option (thank you for your sympathy).

For the first three years the event was from Blackwood to Hepburn Springs, a distance of 37 km, but after two keen (mad?) members walked a further 5 km after everyone else had finished, so they could say they had walked a marathon, it was decided that a "true" marathon of 42 km was appropriate.

The newly completed section of the Great Divide Trail from Castlemaine to Hepburn Springs was chosen for the event held in November 1997. Thirty-three walkers took part on that occasion, with twenty three doing the whole 42 km.

The walk traversed much of the gold mining area of Central Victoria, with many relics of the last century passed along the way. It seemed a pity that we didn't have the time to inspect them more closely. (Ian and Sylvia McLean rectified this last weekend by putting on a shorter day walk along part of the route).

This November we intend to tackle a section of the Great Divide Trail again. If there is sufficient route open, the walk will be staged on the Ballarat - Daylesford section, otherwise the Dry Diggings Track will be used again, perhaps in the opposite (downhill) direction. Eventually, there will be a Daylesford - Bacchus Marsh section also, giving us another route to tackle.

The walk will consist of five easy stages, varying in length from 6 to 12km, so anyone can take part. You can tackle any or all of the legs, with support vehicles to carry you when you want a rest. You need carry very little, just enough water, etc, for the current stage - the cars carry the rest and meet us at the end of each stage

Except for the support vehicles, all cars will be positioned at the finish of the walk, with a bus taking us to the start point. This arrangement was well received last year, as it avoided the long car shuffle which drivers did not appreciate after eleven or twelve hours on the track.

So how about giving it a go? It is really only five easy walks one after another. The terrain is quite gentle, with no long hills. You can do only as much as you wish, while still enjoying the companionship of either the other walkers or the support car drivers.

Join in the fun of the bus trip, and the meal and celebrations at the finish, no matter how far you walk.

The cost will be of the order of $7-10 for the bus and contribution for the support vehicles depending on numbers, about $10 petrol money for travel to and from Melbourne, plus the optional evening meal at a local hotel - not a great amount for a great day out!!!

A walk sheet will be put out at the September meeting, but why not start doing that bit extra now and aiming at the 42 km.

Bill Casey


Three Bike Rides run by Bicycle Victoria.
Article submitted by Bryan Folie

1. Active for Life Bike Ride, 10 October

The 1998 VicHealth Sun Tour is the new challenge and you can be partof it. The "Active for Life" VicHealth Herald-Sun People's Day will be run on Saturday 10 October during the 1998 VicHealth Herald SunTour, the Southern Hemisphere's number one cycling classic.

The peoples day is a partnership between Bicycle Victoria, the Herald Sun and VicHealth. It consist of a demanding course starting and finishing in Sunbury. You can test yourself on three hill climbs and imagine the adrenaline pumping in the 11 sprints that are part of Stage 4. Enjoy scenic bush and farmland views as you cycle past Mt.Macedon and ride through Gisbourne, Woodend and Bachus Marsh.

You will be back in time to watch the professional spirit to the finish and enjoy an afternoon of relaxation, entertaiment and give-aways. This is a great warm up for the Around the Bay in a Day.


2. The 1998 Around The Bay In A Day, 25 October 1998

A day of fun, sweat and gears.
Can you do it?

Can you make it the full 210km around Port Phillip Bay on a bike in one day? This is not a race and it is not for the fainthearted. There are no short cuts around the Bay - just you, your bike and the road.

Tickets are limited for this most popular event so enter early to give yourself every chance of making it on the day. The Ride will be held in daylight hours only.


3. The 1998 Great Victorian Bike Ride, 28 November - 6 December
N o r t h E a s t V i c t o r i a
The fun, the challenge and the friends.

Route:
From the mighty Murray River in northern Victoria, through the scenic north east and finishing in Melbourne.

Distance: 500 kilometres, at an average of 65 km per day.

It's social: 3,000 potential new friends to meet on Australia's largest one week supported bike ride.

The Great Victorian Bike Ride has acquired legendary status in Australian bike riding circles. It is always held in the first week of December. 1998 will be the 15th Great Victorian Bike Ride.

You will meet many who are riding a Great Vic for the first time, but you will also meet many who cannot live without their annual week-long fix of an event that is so much more than a just a bike ride. People come on the Great Victorian Bike Ride for a variety of reasons, some to recapture their youth, others to escape the stresses of day to day life, a few believe that their figures might improve, whilst everyone enjoys the friendly social atmosphere of the event.

Whether you ride as an individual, or with friends, this is the premier supported cycling holiday in Australia, The ride is a soft adventure holiday and, as cycle touring goes, is in the five-star category. Bicycle Victoria's many volunteers will do nearly everything for you, from carrying your luggage, to feeding you, and they will even massage your aching muscles, but they will let you pedal your bike! You will experience an incredible journey: A mix of personal challenge, wonderful scenery and a group of special people. Cycling is the best way to appreciate Victoria's spectacular countryside. This year the north east offers breathtaking scenery, some of Victoria's most interesting towns and legends ranging from Ned Kelly country to the 3,000 'legends' who make it to Melbourne!

This is a ride, not a race! Sure, you can ride at the pace of a low-flying jet if you wish, but most people take their time and arrive at the new campsite in the early afternoon of each day, giving plenty of time to explore and relax.

You Bring:
The ride is always held in the first week of summer so you will need swimming costume, but also bring some gear if it gets cold and/or wet. A detailed list of what clothes, camping gear and bike accessories to bring will be included in your Rider Guide. Bike;Tent; Sleeping mattress; Sleeping bag; Eating utensils.

Route Distances and Map (not yet confirmed - the final word will come in July):

Day 1: Wahgunyah -Chiltern 35 kms
Day 2: Chiltern -Myrtleford 71 kms
Day 3: Myrtleford- Benalla 91kms
Day 4: Benalla -Mansfield 69kms
Day 5: Mansfield- Alexandra 65kms
Day 6: REST DAY at Alexandra -
Day 7: Alexandra -Marysville 47kms
Day 8: Marysville -Yarra Glen 49kms
Day 9: Yarra Glen Heidelberg 39kms

Complied from information from Bicycle Victoria .


Red Cave, October 10-11, Hard
A Base Camp by Chris Jarvis!

Located in a rocky ridge south of the Buandik campsite in the Grampians Victoria Range, this walk will attempt to enter the cave. On previous visits, we have looked down into this large cave from above, and access appeared to be via an awkward abseil. This trip will attempt to enter the cave from the valley below, taking a line through the valley from the nearby Hollow Mountain. Sunday's activities will be decided on the day, and by the weather.

You will need a taste for adventure, and Dunlop Volleys!

Halls Gap to Borough Huts, November 21 - 22. Medium
By Chris Jarvis

A delightful pack walk starting and finishing at Halls Gap, and taking in some of the most spectacular parts of the Eastern Grampians. We will go through the Wonderland Range, Rosea Turntable, over Mount Rosea, and camp at Borough Huts. Sunday will be spent strolling around the eastern shore of Lake Bellfield back to Halls Gap.

Slightly strenuous in places, but suitable for fit pack walk novices.


Cascade Saddle Walk
By Stephen Bocquet

A 6 day pack walk in Mount Aspiring National Park, New Zealand

Experience some of New Zealand's spectacular mountain scenery. Now scheduled for March next year - exact dates to be agreed at a meeting of participants on 26 August. If you would like to come, let me know as soon as possible.

Stephen Bocquet -
--------------------------------------------------------
THANK YOU

Mum and I would like to thank all our friends at EBC for their comfort and sympathy following the sudden loss of Dad on Easter Sunday.

In particular, thanks to all at Wandiligong and those who quickly and quietly packed us up to return when the emergency arose.

Also special thanks for the many flowers, cards and phone calls, visitors and those who were able to attend the funeral, and any donations made to Diabetes Australia in lieu of flowers.

Sylvia McLean
-------------------------------------------------------- WALK REPORTS

Nellie's Point Nepean Walk, Sunday March 5
By Sylvia McLean

We put this walk on the program in response to a request by Nellie Earnshaw for her "Special Anniversary" (Needless to say we celebrated at afternoon tea with a birthday cake later on).

The weather didn't let us down, it was a beautiful Nellie day (in fact it's the last decent Sunday we can remember). Twenty people undertook the leisurely walk, plus Nellie who opted for the bus and met us for lunch at Fort Nepean. Meanwhile, we walked along the beach and through scrub and explored battle fortifications, view points and Harold Holt's memorial. As we walked along the ridge to the point, the panorama was unsurpassed; with rough seas battering the rocks where Holt drowned, with the Otways in the distance on one side. On the other, the calmer waters of the bay with boats and jet skiers challenging The Ripp between the heads. We stopped and watched the pilot working; guiding the large vessels out to sea and then returning to the next vessel; Queenscliff, along with landmarks such as the You Yangs, Mount Macedon and the buildings of Melbourne being clearly recognised.

At Fort Nepean Nellie was eagerly waiting, and we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the energising sunshine. Later exploring the underground tunnels and gun emplacements. This area is very thought provoking as one always feels so safe in Australia and yet in those early years they were prepared for the invasion of the Russians.

The return trip was direct down the main road for afternoon tea in the picnic area at the interpretation centre.

Thanks to all who came to enjoy the day walk with Nellie.

Ian & Sylvia McLean

LWE 6-8 June'98, Bluff to Howitt
By Jane & Bill McHardy

45Km M/H, Party of 9 led by Chris Jarvis.

The forecast was for "drizzle on Saturday, rain on Sunday, easing Monday." The country woman at "Nanna May's" in Yea said the farmers were looking forward to it, reminding us that rain meant snow where we were going.

Saturday morning at Sheepyard Flat awoke to kookaburras, mist, and the beautiful white eucalypts of the Howqua Valley. The trail bikers were still sleeping off last night's stubbies so we took advantage of the quiet to slip away.

Struggling up the Bluff, the mist was joined with rainy wind, and on the shoulder of the Bluff, a gale in full force. We had entered a much different world to the valley below. Donning overpants and thermals, we quick-stepped it with heads down to avoid the stinging rain and hail, and in close formation made a beeline for Bluff Hut. Three quarters there, two shadowy figures loomed out from the shelter of some snow gums and hurriedly greeted us. It was those familiar characters of the high plains Captain Forster and Father Jorgenson "We've come to contemplate the King Billy Tree - we're staying overnight in Bluff Hut".

After lunch at Bluff Hut, and a quick warm by the fire, we bade farewell to worldly comforts, to continue our "Wintereisse". At Lovicks Hut we paused briefly to shelter from the rain. A 4WD Village was established around it, and after some lung fulls of cigarette smoke and beer fumes we followed our preference for the fresh air of the trail.

Evening camp was made in a saddle below King Billy, with an early retirement from the steady rain. During the night the rain eased and petered out, and a soft silence enveloped us, warm in our sleeping bags.

The early morning revealed six inches of snow, on and around our tents. It was whirling furiously. We breakfasted inside. Our fingers would soon freeze pulling down and packing our tents. The hardest part of the walk was immediately before us.

After an hour of snow walking we faced the ridge of Mt. Magdala, and the snowstorm became a blizzard. With visibility down to ten metres, we formed a "centipede" to endure the buffeting wind blasts. It was obvious that the conditions were becoming worse. A few yards further our leader turned and shouted "everyone turn around! We are going back down! It's impossible!". I think everyone sighed with relief at the decision.

Our exit from the mountains down Helicopter Spur became our next adventure. Seemingly impassable in places, we had to scout around some of the stony bluffs and cliffs, lowering packs by hand at a few places. Eventually the valley floor was reached, and Bindaree Hut became our evening camp to reflect on the day's events.

Monday was spent walking down the Howqua Valley in warmth and sunshine. What a beautiful place the valley is!

Thanks Chris for a well planned and led walk. Thanks to the other participants for your company and support. The trip will stay in our minds as an exciting and moving adventure.

June 1998
-------------------------------------------------------- "Winter in America ... is cold...."

By Enid Widmer

John and I enjoyed a cross-country skiing holiday in Northern America for 4 weeks during the 97/98 Christmas holidays. We flew out from Melbourne, had a stopover in Honolulu, and arrived in Seattle Christmas Eve, about midnight. The car-rental staff in Santa hats cheerfully sent us on our way in a "mid-size" Chevy Lumina - nothing "mid' about this car, it was big!

We didn't have a white Christmas in Seattle, a port city on Puget Sound which rarely has snow, but we did enjoy a crisp, winter day. We drove around the suburbs, admiring huge houses with views of Lake Washington, inlets and cosy harbours, against the dramatic backdrop of snow covered Mt Rainier.
"Boxing Day" was not a holiday. The post-Christmas sales and exchange rush meant that stores were crowded and busy. Prior to leaving home, we had decided to buy our skis in America, so we needed to find a "Paddy Pallin". We discovered REI, more a shrine to outdoor activity than a store! REI (definitely worth a visit if you're in Seattle) is built of natural stone and features a waterfall, climbing wall, roaring log fires in lounge areas, a cafe, and 5 or 6 floors of the latest in outdoor clothing and equipment.

Two days later, we were on our way to Canada, driving across vast agricultural plains south of the Grand Coulee dam in central Washington and then north into British Columbia. It was still too early for snow in the Pacific Northwest and the Canadian Rockies seemed like a safe bet. We were not disappointed, skiing at Cardmore Nordic Centre (at the base of the Rockies in Alberta) then higher up at Lake Louise, Banff, Kicking Horse Pass, and the Kootenay Valley. With trails too numerous to mention, and heavy snow falls the norm, accessibility did depend upon whether the trails had been cut recently and avalanche warnings current for particular areas. Information on roads and ski trails was available from National Parks offices and 1-800 telephone information services.

The coldest temperatures we experienced were minus 30C to minus 25C, down on the plains of Alberta. The Rockies were milder, minus 15C to minus 20C, comfortable for cross-country skiing, with an additional layer of clothing than we Aussies would normally wear. Some trails had warming huts, complete with pot belly stove, wood, axe and matches, and we escaped into these huts on a couple of occasions when the wind chill was unbearable.

Leaving Canada (and the favourable exchange rate for our $AUD) we drove south to experience some US snow, and again were not disappointed. We skied the trails at Big Sky and West Yellowstone in Montana, Harriman State Park and Galena (near Sun Valley) in Idaho, Mt Bachelor in Oregon and the Methow Valley (near Winthrop) in northern Washington. Not surprisingly, conditions in these US snow fields were milder, and similar to our own - only much, much more of the white stuff! We saw wildlife - deer, coyotes and trumpeter swans.

We have maps and more detailed information for intending travellers, and for those of you interested in the practicalities ..... here are some handy facts:-

Where we stayed - motels - ranging in price from $39 to $55 CAN in Canada, $30 to $50 US in the United States. Motel accommodation includes a breakfast of sorts and was available in most towns - even Banff - without booking ahead. Locals explained to us that winter was low season in the Canadian Rockies.

The roads - our car was fitted with winter tyres, which meant chains weren't necessary. Roads were cleared promptly by the authorities, and though icy roads required caution, the driving conditions were surprisingly good. In all, we drove 5000 miles with no problems.
Cost of ski-trails - Canadian National Parks charge an entrance fee which covers the use of any cross-country trails. US State Parks often have ski trails in them, and each state sells a "Sno-Park" permit (Washington State was $20 US for the whole season, or $7 US per day). Commercial trail fees on average cost $10 AUD per day.


Memorable moments - Soaking in the open-air hot springs at Radium, British Columbia, surrounded by rocky mountains and falling snow melting into the swirling steam rising from the 39C pools.

Enid Widmer



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